Investment Portfolio is a series where associate director Kristen Nichols takes an in-depth look at the best designer buys and test-drives them, from new seasonal drops to timeless heirloom items.

Prada’s spring/summer 2024 collection was set to a soundtrack from Alfred Hitchcock’s 1958 film Vertigo. The dramatic, suspenseful music accompanied the cinematic vision of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons as models walked down the runway in frothy organza dresses that cascaded behind them in wind-like effect. Just as eye-catching were the satin heels paired with the looks. The looks and shoes alike—steeped in nostalgia and the bygone glamour of the ‘50s—set the tone for 2024’s return to elegance and opulence that is already defining where fashion is headed this year. It’s a major turn in fashion that marks a shift away from oversize proportions and chunky shoes with the return of refined clothing and sophisticated accessories.

The satin kitten heels on Prada’s runway have since carved themselves out as a key buy for 2024. They have landed in the season’s biggest editorial shoots, on the hot list from Threads Styling, and in the closets of the best-dressed people on the street style scene. Celebrity product sourcer Gab Waller also named them as a key buy for the season. “I originally teased the new Prada Satin Mules on our TikTok in early January, and the comment section immediately told me that this was a style to watch. ‘Need those mules’ were the consistent three words across the post,” Waller explains of the buzzy heels. There are a range of styles including Mary Jane stilettos and sharply-pointed mules, but it is the square-toe kitten heels that have the makings of a future heirloom piece. Ahead, we’re taking a closer look at the Prada satin mules, including all of the details to know, thoughts from fashion industry experts, and how to style them.

The moment I first spotted Prada’s satin mules when they debuted on the spring/summer 2024 runway at Milan Fashion Week, they won me over. Specifically, the square-toe kitten heel version. I have a soft spot for kitten heels since they dominate my day-to-day looks, so I’m perpetually on the lookout for a new pair to add to my closet. I already count several Prada kitten heel in my wardrobe, including a vintage ’90s pair and slingbacks from the spring/summer 2022 collection. Both have similar pointed shapes, so I was immediately drawn to the unique square silhouette of the new-season style as well as the throwback ’50s design codes.

Taking a closer look at the shoes on the Prada spring/summer 2024 runway, they are finished in beautiful glossy satin and low kitten heel. With their elegant lines, the shoes were one of the first signs of the shift towards sophisticated fashion that is defining style this year. Prada continues to set the tone where fashion is headed in a larger sense, so it comes as no surprise that Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons were among the first designers to usher this new sense of glamour on the runways.

As soon as the shoes arrived in-store, I went to see them (and test-drive them) in person. The heels were altered from the original runway version in production, transforming the design from a simple kitten heel to an architectural shape that is inspired by the iconic Prada triangle logo. Not every color from the runway was produced, including a hot pink style that was cut, but they are available in four colorways including orange, fern green, tobacco brown, and black.

The buzz around Prada has been growing, and the brand’s satin mules are taking the lead this spring. And that buzz goes beyond a single shopping item, all of the viral social media posts, and conversations within the fashion community. Looking at metrics alone, it’s easy to see that Prada is absolutely thriving, despite slowdowns in the luxury sphere. According to Business of Fashion, Prada sales grew 12% in 2023, while searches for the brand were up 41%. Prada was named the hottest brand of Q4 2023, according the the Lyst Index. The brand’s spring/summer 2024 runway show was also named the #1 collection of the season in Vogue Runway’s fashion poll. All in all, Prada is in the lead when it comes to directional designs that are setting the tone for where fashion is headed, and also translating to sales.