If there’s one thing I’ve learnt about getting an elevated-looking manicure, it’s good cuticle work. Way back when I first started doing my nails, I couldn’t work out why my DIY manicures never ended up quite as neat as my nail tech’s or pictures I’d see on Instagram. Now, having sat in the salon chair with many a celebrity nail tech in my role as a beauty journalist, I’ve come to learn that expensive-looking nails are 80% cuticle work.

Groomed cuticles—the skin around our nail plates—really do lay the foundation for a long-lasting, professional-looking manicure. And they can make or break the overall appearance of your nails. With “cuticle removers” receiving over 6000 Google searches each month, we’re clearly all wanting to upgrade our manicures. However, there are some important things to know about keeping your cuticles healthy and how to safely improve the appearance of your cuticles. So, I enlisted the help of Michelle Class, celebrity manicurist and Sally Hansen ambassador, to shed light on how to safely remove our cuticles and the best cuticle removers to try at home.

What Is the Nail Cuticle?

Ok, so what actually is the cuticle anyway? “The nail cuticle is a layer of clear skin located along the bottom edge of your finger or toe, known as the nail bed. Its primary function is to protect the new nail from bacteria when it grows out from the nail root,” says Class. It turns out that this small piece of skin actually plays a big role in the overall appearance of your nails, as well as the longevity of your manicure, says Class. “Cuticle prep is crucial for the overall look of a manicure. Properly prepped cuticles help create a clean, polished look, allowing the nail polish to be applied smoothly and last longer,” she says. “Neglected cuticles can lead to a messy appearance and may cause the polish to lift and chip prematurely.” Pushing back your cuticles can also make your nails look longer, and maintaining healthy cuticles helps to prevent hangnails too.

How to Remove the Nail Cuticle

There are several ways to remove the nail cuticle, but some should only be done by a qualified nail tech to avoid causing damage.

1. Cuticle Softener and Pusher: Apply a cuticle softener or remover, then gently push back the cuticle with a cuticle pusher. “For non-professionals, the safest and best method to remove the cuticle is to use a cuticle softener or remover, followed by gently pushing back the cuticle with a pusher,” says Class. “This minimises the risk of injury and infection.”